Why in News?
- A 17-member Indian Coast Guard (ICG) team successfully climbed Mount Mukut East (7,045 m) on 7 October 2026—the ICG’s first successful ascent of a peak above 7,000 metres.
- On October 12, 2026, Uttarakhand Chief Minister Pushkar Singh Dhami formally welcomed and flagged in the team during a ceremony in Dehradun, praising their grit and national pride.
Geography & Location
- Location: Situated in the Chamoli district within the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, India. It lies close to the Indo-China border.
- Mountain Range: It is a part of the Kamet Zaskar Range (Western Garhwal Himalayas).
- Rankings: It is the 20th highest peak located entirely within India and ranks as the 96th highest peak in the world.
- Surrounding Peaks: It is located near other major giants such as Mount Kamet (7,756 m) and Abi Gamin (7,355 m).
Expedition Timeline
- 15 September 2026: Expedition began.
- 1 October 2026: First base camp established.
- 7 October 2026: Team reached the 7,045 m summit despite adverse weather.
- 12 October 2026: Flag-in ceremony held in Dehradun
Structural Features & Elevation
- The Name: "Mukut" translates to "Crown" in Hindi, a name given due to the peak's distinctive crown-like appearance.
- Two Summits: The mountain features two distinct peaks:
- Main Peak: Stands at an elevation of 7,242 metres (23,760 feet). (Note: The recent ICG expedition successfully scaled the adjacent Mukut East subsidiary summit at 7,045–7,130 metres).
- Climate: Because it sits within the Zaskar range, the area receives a relatively light monsoon compared to other parts of the Himalayas.
- Glaciers: Its western slopes feed the branches of the West Kamet Glacier and the Dakhini Chamrao Glacier.
Climbing History & Access
- First Ascent: The main peak was first conquered in 1951 by a New Zealand expedition team that included Edmund Cotter, Earle Riddiford, and Pasang Dawa Lama, who tackled its steep western ridge. Legendry climber Edmund Hillary was also a part of this broader New Zealand expedition party.
- Base for Expeditions: The nearest town that acts as a base camp hub for climbers planning an ascent is Joshimath. The physical approach typically moves via Ghastoli, north of Badrinath.
- Strict Access: Due to its sensitive location near the international border, it remains less frequented by commercial tourists and requires multiple inner-line permits from bureaucratic authorities to climb.
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